Used car inspection checklist: what to look for
Before buying a used car, a thorough inspection is vital for uncovering hidden issues and protecting your finances. This checklist covers key points for buyers and mechanics to ensure you make a smart purchase.
Exterior inspection points
Start your evaluation by walking completely around the vehicle in daylight. Look at the car from different angles to spot body irregularities, panel gaps, or mismatched paint colors that might indicate previous accident repairs. Run your hand along body panels feeling for rough spots, ripples, or texture differences that paint can’t always hide.
Check all four tires for tread depth using the penny test—insert a penny into the tread with Lincoln’s head upside down. If you can see the top of his head, the tires need replacement soon. Uneven wear patterns suggest alignment problems, worn suspension components, or improper tire inflation. Examine the sidewalls for cracks, bulges, or damage.
Inspect the glass for cracks or chips that could spread or impair visibility. Small chips in the windshield often can be repaired inexpensively, but large cracks require full replacement. Check that all lights work properly including headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashers.
Under the hood assessment
Pop the hood and look for obvious issues before starting the engine. Check fluid levels including engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid. Oil should be amber or light brown, not black and gritty. Coolant should be bright, not rusty. Low fluid levels or dirty fluids suggest poor maintenance.
Look for signs of leaks around the engine, transmission, and radiator. Fresh oil spots, coolant puddles, or fluid-soaked areas indicate problems that need addressing. Examine belts and hoses for cracks, fraying, or excessive wear. A squealing belt or bulging hose means imminent replacement.
Check the battery terminals for corrosion, which appears as white or greenish crusty buildup. Look at the battery manufacturing date—most last three to five years. An old battery will need replacement soon. Integrate this mechanical assessment into your preparation alongside advice from our complete used car buying guide for a secure outcome.
Interior condition and features
Sit in the driver’s seat and assess comfort and condition. Check that the seat adjusts properly in all directions. Test the steering wheel adjustment if applicable. Worn driver’s seat bolsters or a shiny steering wheel indicate high mileage, which should match the odometer reading.
Test every switch, button, and control. Turn on the air conditioning and ensure it blows cold air within a minute or two. Switch to heat and verify it gets hot. Test the radio, speakers, power windows, power locks, mirrors, and sunroof if equipped. Non-functioning accessories reduce the car’s value and cost money to repair.
Look for warning signs of water damage including musty smells, water stains on upholstery or carpets, or moisture in the lights. Check under floor mats and in the trunk for dampness or rust. Water damage, especially from flooding, causes expensive electrical and mechanical problems that persist for years.
Test drive evaluation
The test drive reveals problems you can’t detect with the car sitting still. Before starting, check that the “check engine” light illuminates when you turn the key to the accessory position, then goes off after starting. If it doesn’t light up at all, someone may have disabled it to hide problems. If it stays on while running, the car has diagnostic trouble codes that need investigation.
Listen and feel carefully while driving. The engine should start easily and idle smoothly without excessive noise or vibration. Acceleration should be strong and responsive without hesitation or unusual sounds. The transmission should shift smoothly without jerking, slipping, or delayed engagement.
Test the brakes in a safe location by applying firm pressure at various speeds. The car should stop straight without pulling to either side. Pulsation in the pedal suggests warped rotors. Grinding noises mean the brake pads are worn out. Spongy pedal feel indicates air in the brake lines or other hydraulic problems.
Steering and suspension check
Pay attention to how the car handles and rides. Steering should feel tight and responsive without excessive play or looseness. If you can move the steering wheel more than an inch before the wheels respond, the steering components are worn. The car should track straight without constant correction when driving on level pavement.
Drive over bumps and rough pavement to evaluate the suspension. Excessive bouncing, bottoming out, or clunking noises indicate worn shocks or struts. The ride should feel controlled and composed. Listen for squeaks, rattles, or knocking sounds that suggest worn suspension bushings or ball joints.
Engine and transmission performance
During the test drive, accelerate firmly to highway speeds if possible. The engine should pull strongly through the entire RPM range without sputtering, misfiring, or power loss. Watch the temperature gauge to ensure the engine doesn’t overheat, especially in stop-and-go traffic.
For automatic transmissions, the car should shift smoothly at appropriate speeds. Delayed shifts, harsh engagement, or slipping between gears are expensive transmission problems. Manual transmissions should shift easily without grinding or resistance. The clutch should engage smoothly with a clear engagement point, not slip or chatter.
Professional inspection necessity
Even if everything seems perfect during your inspection, having a trusted mechanic perform a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection is essential. This typically costs $100 to $200 but can save thousands by identifying problems you missed. A professional mechanic has diagnostic tools, a lift to access the underside, and expertise to spot subtle issues.
The mechanic will perform compression tests, scan for diagnostic trouble codes, inspect the exhaust system for leaks or damage, check the suspension and steering components thoroughly, and examine the undercarriage for rust, frame damage, or oil leaks. They’ll give you a detailed report of the car’s condition and identify any immediate or future repair needs. Before making your final decision, exploring state-by-state resources for used car buyers helps you verify local requirements and connect with consumer protection services.
Documentation review
While inspecting the physical vehicle, also review all documentation carefully. The title should be clean without salvage, rebuilt, or flood designations. Verify the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the dashboard and door jamb. Check the odometer reading against service records to ensure it’s accurate.
Ask for maintenance records showing regular oil changes and scheduled services. A well-maintained vehicle with complete records is worth more and likely to be more reliable. If the seller can’t provide service history, that’s a warning sign of possible neglect.
Making your decision
After completing your inspection and test drive, step back and evaluate what you found. Minor cosmetic issues or small maintenance items shouldn’t necessarily be deal-breakers, especially if reflected in the price. However, major mechanical problems, signs of serious accidents, or evidence of neglect warrant walking away.
Use any issues discovered during inspection as negotiation leverage. If the car needs new tires, brakes, or other repairs, request a price reduction equal to or greater than the repair costs. A legitimate seller who wants to complete the sale will often accommodate reasonable requests based on documented problems.
Taking time to methodically inspect a used car before purchase protects your investment and ensures you buy a reliable vehicle. Following this checklist helps you make informed decisions and avoid expensive mistakes that could haunt you for years.
